wherever you go, make it an adventure

live like a tourist, even if you’re home

because that’s when you’ll find yourself really living

make friends, jump off bridges, soak it in

my last day in Ortakent- how these views now feel like home

And I could not have, in fact, ordered a more perfect day.

One of the benefits of being in Turkey is the near proximity of Greece and it’s islands. Kos is just a 20 minute boat ride away, but it’s still going to another country, made especially official by the passport stamp (which is always exciting for me- I say, keep the collection coming).

Once we pulled into port, Kayla and I decided renting a pair of bikes was the best option for seeing the most of the island. Note to self: get an international drivers license so that next time, we can rent the moped. But for now, the bikes would do.

Actually, they were perfect. Considering my already adamant admiration for bike riding, this excursion put me over the edge with glee.

Biking through the breeze on the coast of a Greek island literally feels like a movie. Blue and green water shimmering like crystals is the constant view to the left. To the right, the terrain changes from the shops and restaurants of the center of town to mountains and fields dotted with goats and cows. Fellow bike riders ring their bells as they pass by, a row of European boys being especially nice. “Good morning, ladies!” calls out an old, Greek man in front of his store. It’s an island, everyone here is on vacation. Or at least living like it. So why would you not be happy, friendly, and free?

We continued down the coast where it gradually became more secluded and rustic. Paths through Queen Anne’s lace led to the beach, beckoning me to return one day for what would be the perfect picnic. Riding by a quaint Greek restaurant that looked most authentic, we decided to pull over for a bite to eat. Overlooking the water while eating genuine Greek cuisine- I don’t want to take this for granted. But I already have, seeing how it’s now normal for every meal I have to come with a view of the sea. Nearly every restaurant I’ve been to since coming to Turkey has been by the water, making even the simplest meal a luxury.

Revived by the freshest Greek eatery (yum to olives and feta cheese) our bike ride continued back up the shore. Past the town again, all the way to the tip of the island. Following a trail through the grass to the beach, I simply wanted to ride my bike straight into the sea. 

I love the secluded and rustic feeling. Standing by your bike with sweaty, tan skin, salty windswept hair knotted on top of your head. Bikini top and running shorts. You could care less how you look, you just want to feel. Feel your lungs breathing deep, your muscles exhausted from peddling. The sun blistering your skin, the salty sea air cooling. You just want to feel in those moments. Nothing more. You simply want to be.

Back to the center of town we were on a mission though, to fulfill a craving, for authentic Greek yogurt. Frozen with fruit, please. They had to have it. And we would find it. Although we thought it might be a lost cause, seeing only ice cream or loaded waffles as we walked the streets. The scenery along the way was pretty though, and the little boy sitting by the church singing on his little guitar? Priceless.

But apparently this day really was destined to be perfect, for as we turned the corner we discovered what might have been the only little shop on all of Kos that had precisely what we had ordered: authentic, frozen Greek yogurt. We ran in with squeals.

And. it was potentially the most delicious dessert of my entire life. No more words, this one cannot be explained. Craving, simply, satisfied.

With an hour left before our ferry took us back, a cat nap on the shore sounded best. Lying with our backs on the pebbles, legs in the water- the sun, the air, the sea was happy and fresh. The energy of the day simmered down around us into a blanket of warmth. Basking in the vitality of the day, each moment could be savored through reflection.

Sometimes you can’t completely absorb the reality of a day. Sometimes you just have to float in the feeling of it, not quite grasping the entirety of it. Just recognizing that it was one of those days that commemorates life being beautiful. Life being full. Life being free.



PS: riding on a bus completely surrounded by foreigners should never cause you to refrain from singing out loud while sharing an iPod. Singing and dancing in your seat to much missed American pop music might be enough to bring you to tears with happiness, so never stop yourself. Sometimes, you just really feel like singing and dancing. And Maroon 5 and Akon can seriously bring it out of you. Never, never hold back that feeling. Even if it makes you that obnoxious American girl that gets looks of disgust from the much more sophisticated European passengers. The joy that it brings is completely and utterly worth the embarrassment. So dance. on #lessonlearned

When you live in a country that is only 200 years old, 7000 years old ruins kind of blow your mind. Turkey is a place from where so many things originate, so history really is everywhere. Seeing the city of Ephesus was especially exciting for me though, considering the fact I could read in my Bible the letter Paul wrote to the church there, while walking the same street he had.

And as I was walking down those streets, surrounded by swarms of people, I couldn’t help but get a kick out of imagining everyone wearing togas or riding donkeys, just to get a glimpse of what it might have looked like a couple thousand years ago. To imagine the shouts of gladiators and lions fighting in the colosseum I was walking by. To think of people studying scrolls in the Library of Celsus, 1 of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World. It’s real life, these people were real. This place was alive. You have to let that sink in. And then it’s really unbelievable.

Driving to Ephesus from Bodrum was about a 3 hour drive, so having good company was a definite plus. Seeing the scenery change along the drive was beautiful, herds of sheep dotting the fields or people riding by on donkeys in the more rural areas. It was good to see a more antique side of Turkey…

When we first showed up in the ancient city, we were so excited that every rock, every pillar, was worth a picture. It might have been good to know at the beginning that the ruins got progressively better, because by the time we got to the end of the tour, we were so worn out that the final, great monuments didn’t quite get the admiration they deserved. At the beginning we would have shrieked over a 2 foot column. By the end? The mammoth colosseum got a nod and a shrug. Eh, it still looks pretty good from our seat in the shade, right?

But there was excitement throughout nonetheless.

The first colosseum we saw was actually a small theatre called Odeion, so it really was worth the pictures. This is where they would have debates and arguments (I relate it to my family living room). It can seat about 1400 and we were allowed to walk all over it (which still boggles my mind- how do these rocks not completely disintegrate?)

Continuing down the road there were some temple ruins dedicated to Emperor Domitian, which used to have rows and rows of columns, but is now just a big archway…

The street that keeps on going downhill, from the Heracles Gate to the Celsus Library, is called the Curetes street. It’s the main street in the very center of the city, so it has a lot of great monuments along the way. Fun fact: the Curetes it’s named after are a class of priests that were in Ephesus and story goes they helped cover up some drama for Zeus. Zeus must have had an affair with this gal Leto and got her pregnant with twins, Artemis and Apollo. Well, we can’t have Hera, Zeus’s wife hearing about this and getting jealous, so the Curetes made a ton of noise while she was giving birth to distract Hera. Nice guys, huh? Lets name a street after them…

The Temple of Hadrian is at the beginning of that street and real pretty, with intricate archways and a porch you can climb up onto. This was my favorite view of the city and gave a great view of the Library at the end of the street. Over the door is a carving of Medusa, so we got to hear the cool story of how she was killed (by her own reflection, since looking at her would turn you into stone- very clever).

Then there’s the great, Celsus Library, built in 117 A.D. by Tiberius Julius Aquila in honor of his deceased dad. Made of marble, it’s fascinating to see these two stories of intricate columns still intact. Between the doors are statues representing Wisdom (Sophia), Knowledge (Episteme), Intelligence (Ennoia) and Virtua (Arte).

This library survived a fire in 262 that destroyed the interior but left the outside. There are still crevices in the walls where they would keep the scrolls though. Scrolls. That’s what they were reading off of. And no library cards, most likely.

And last thing: Artemis, the Greek goddess, is very popular here in Ephesus (remember the story of her birth with cheating dad, Zeus?) There’s a statue of her here in the city and story is she’s a very fierce hunter and also the goddess of childbirth. Ephesus’ first inhabitants might have actually been the first feminists, the Amazon women. Go girl power! And Orion, who my favorite constellation was named after? He was killed by Artemis. With a scorpion. Talk about a powerful woman. This city is just filled with inspiration…

(tour info from) http://www.kusadasi.biz/ephesus/marble-street.html

Looking forward to each new weekend in Bodrum

A Mandarin Oriental Resort is opening in Paradise Bay in Bodrum and it is projected to be one of the most luxurious in the world…

So why not start it off with a good party? One being an exclusive brunch in the bay, where rows and rows of Mediterranean cuisine are set on the dock right on the Aegean sea. Platters of stuffed grape leaves, salmon, chickpeas, local fruit- apricots and peaches so fresh they were practically bursting.

A personalized omelet station, ice cream cones you can top with pistachios or pine nuts, tables upon tables of ethnic desserts, every kind of baklava…the food was not only abundant, but it reflected the surrounding culture with fresh flavors and rich textures.

All of this, directly on the water of Paradise Bay, filled with water so crisp and clear you feel as if you’re swimming in diamonds. The shore is the perfect gradient of three colors: clear water over smooth grey pebbles, then bright green water that turns into deep, azure blue. You float on your back and see mountains and islands in the distance. You never see just endless water, your view is always more diverse and interesting when you’re in the sea versus the ocean.

Besides the food and the view, you were are also surrounded by guests from all over the world (apparently the Prince of Saudi Arabia was somewhere nearby), so you never knew what language someone would begin with when they approached you. As everyone was brunching we watched a show put on just for us, featuring water acrobat teams that have traveled all across the world, from Paris to Dubai.

Water skiing, jumping, and dancing, they awed us with their extreme talents. Music pulsed along the shore as guests lay out on beds under white canopies, sipping champagne and eating grapes while applauding a human pyramid that zips by on water skis. It was the ultimate Sunday afternoon- place us on one of the world’s finest beaches, with crystal clear water, sunshine and breeze, surround us with people and endless access to excellent food, and while you’re at it, give us a show too!

I can see why they call this Paradise. And I was happy with just the view!

There is nothing like the Aegean coast. I’m afraid I’ll never be able to capture all the beautiful aspects about it. Pictures and videos surely to come.

This, however, is our view from the dinner table last night, our first night out all together in Bodrum. Perfection

We literally sat right on the water. The coast here is especially beautiful because all of islands, cliffs, ancient architecture, and overall ambiance make it so much more interesting then flat blue water. There are restaurants and shops lit up all along the coast. In between courses we could walk along the water, hearing an assortment of languages along the way and playing with kitties that roam the streets.

That’s not even mentioning the food…course after course of fresh, Aegean cuisine. Fish soup, sea greens, salad, some sort of fish, onion, and tomato medley, and some fantastic licorice tasting drink.

I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to dine in a normal restaurant ever again…

3.5 hours later and not only was my stomach stuffed and happy, but my soul was also full and calm, having absorbed such tranquil, Aegean spirit.

Just going out for dinner in Turkey can be difficult when you’re on your own. But that’s when the adventures happen you know…

There was a Starbucks on the corner, I spotted writing in English. Tempting. But you’re in Turkey, silly girl. No safe egg white spinach wraps here. Go find a kabob or something! Funny how all the menus are in another language, and no matter how big you smile and sound out “hello”, the waiters still don’t understand you. I saw pictures of falaffel at Koefteque on the corner, that was a good sign. One moment, ma’am, the waiter dashes inside and grabs another gentlemen. Hello! He speaks English!

Silly American girl, we’ll take care of you. He got me a table all of my own. An entire basket of bread, fresh yogurt, and a little meat pie. After helping me decipher the whole menu, he stood by my table and chatted away. I’m a “you can practice your English” magnet, which also means I get my own personal dinner companion. Score.

He told me stories of how he worked on a cruise ship for 10 years. He has  literally traveled the world. And, he had been to Norfolk! I said that’s near my school! He said he ate great lobster there. I said that’s where I ate Turkish food. Funny how it comes full circle.

He told me not to eat the green pepper, it would be too hot and I would cry.

He talked about all the ports he had stopped in, the thousands of people he had worked with and met. He has friends from all around the world. He’s been to Hawaii, New York, Miami, France, Norway, Finland, Italy, Greece- you name it. He’s been there. And now he’s standing at my table. Giving me Turkish tea to end my meal, as I tell him about my tea cup collection at home.

So just going out to dinner in Turkey can be difficult. But that only makes it 100x’s more rewarding.I was glad he decided to practice his English on me. I was beaming the entire walk home.

(I had left my camera at home- but this is a picture from their website of one of the appetizers he gave me. Puts pizza to shame)

www.koefteque.com

By far the coolest Starbucks I have ever seen

(2 stories, spiral staircase, balcony and porch views of the Bosphorus, and very nice gentleman behind the counter that make great attempts at perfecting their English)

McDonalds right next to a mosque: America and Turkey meet